AC Repair Services

Key signs: the system is running but your home isn't reaching the thermostat setting, you're getting warm or room-temperature air from vents, the system is cycling on and off more frequently than usual, you hear new or unusual noises, you see ice forming on the unit, or water is pooling near the indoor air handler. Any one of these warrants a professional inspection.

This is the most common AC complaint. Most likely causes: low refrigerant from a slow leak (most common), dirty condenser coil blocking heat rejection to outdoor air, a failed capacitor preventing the compressor from operating at full capacity, a frozen evaporator coil from restricted airflow, or a failing compressor. Each requires a different repair — professional diagnosis identifies which applies.

Warm air from AC vents usually means the compressor isn't running or the refrigerant circuit isn't working. Common causes: dead capacitor (compressor can't start), failed contactor, refrigerant leak, or the thermostat set to fan-only instead of COOL. Check the thermostat setting first — if that's not the issue, call for diagnosis.

AC repair cost depends heavily on the failed component. Common repairs: capacitor replacement $100–250, contactor replacement $150–300, refrigerant leak diagnosis + repair + recharge $300–800+ depending on refrigerant type and leak location, fan motor replacement $300–600, control board $200–500. Compressor replacement on an older system often costs more than a new system. We provide upfront pricing after diagnosis — you know the cost before we start.

Once a year — before cooling season in spring — is the standard recommendation. Annual maintenance catches developing problems (weak capacitors, dirty coils, low refrigerant) before they cause a failure during the first heat wave. For Colorado homes, March–May is ideal for scheduling.

Short cycling has several causes: an oversized system (the most common — cools the thermostat area quickly without conditioning the whole house), a dirty condenser coil causing the high-pressure cutoff to trip, low refrigerant causing the low-pressure switch to trip, or a compressor overheating and triggering thermal protection. Each requires diagnosis to confirm.

Water from an air conditioner's indoor unit is condensate — moisture the AC removed from indoor air. It should drain through the condensate line. When it leaks, the most common cause is a clogged drain line. Other causes: a cracked or corroded drain pan, a frozen evaporator coil that's thawing faster than the drain can handle, or a disconnected drain line. Don't ignore water leaks — they can cause significant interior damage.

The two main causes of a frozen air conditioner: severely restricted airflow (most commonly a completely clogged air filter, which prevents the evaporator coil from absorbing enough heat — it gets too cold and freezes moisture from the air), or low refrigerant charge (the coil runs at below-normal temperatures). If your AC is frozen, turn it off and let it thaw completely — then replace the filter and run the fan only. If it freezes again after that, call for a refrigerant check.

Most straightforward repairs — capacitor, contactor, drain line, minor electrical — are completed in one visit of 1–3 hours. Refrigerant work adds time for leak detection, repair, and recharge. Parts that need to be ordered may require a return visit. We give you a realistic estimate after evaluating the system.

Factors that favor repair: system is under 10–12 years old, uses R-410A refrigerant (not the phased-out R-22), the failed component is a capacitor, contactor, or fan motor (relatively inexpensive), and no other components show signs of wear. Factors that favor replacement: system is 12–18+ years old, uses R-22, compressor has failed, repair cost exceeds 50% of new system cost, or the system has had multiple repairs in recent seasons. We give you an honest recommendation after evaluating your specific system.